There is probably no single more beneficial modification you can make to
improve off road capability than to install a quality suspension lift and
larger tires, that's where this project starts. It seemed fundamentally
wrong for a manufacturer to build a 4x4 (not to mention a Jeep) with dinky
215/75R15 tires. From the time the Jeep was purchased a few months ago, it
was obvious a suspension lift and larger tires were in order.
I had to keep lift and tire size to a minimum so that the Jeep would still
be under the 6'6" height limit of the parking garage it frequents Monday
through Friday. With this in mind, the lift needed to be 3 inches or less,
with no larger than a 31-inch tire. After previous experience with a
particular manufacturers 3 inch lift, including unbelievably stiff front
coils, obnoxiously squeaky and poor riding add-a-leaf, and terribly valved
shocks, I knew I wasn't going to make that mistake again. I was going to do
it right, or not do it at all. This meant avoiding blocks, add-a-leafs, and
coil spring spacers, none of which have any beneficial value aside from
raising the vehicle and will generally give you more grief than they're
worth. I only found one manufacturer that sold replacement lift coils as
well as a full replacement spring pack in my desired lift range; enter Old
Man Emu.
Never heard of Old Man Emu? It's the suspension end of the Australian based
ARB, most notable for their air lockers. Not only did OME have the 2 inch
lift I was looking for, they offer a choice of "medium" or "heavy" duty
springs, as well as a choice of standard or "firmer" valved shocks to match.
I chose the softer springs and shocks for this application. You might be
wondering why I didn't pick those other brand spiffy adjustable shocks to go
with the new springs, it was not a tough choice. Without being able to
adjust rebound and compression dampening independently, I've never been able
to get these shocks to perform exactly as I desired. The mentality of that
same company that "if the shock physically fits, then it's the right one"
was another factor in choosing the OME shocks. How can you honestly claim
the same shock for the front end of a '69 4WD Suburban is the appropriate
shock for the rear of a Jeep Scrambler? OME claims to develop each shock for
it's specific application, and previous experience made the choice obvious.
Installing the new springs and shocks is straightforward, typical of lifting
any solid axle vehicle. Replacing the rear leaf packs with the new OME
springs is a simple job. After removing both of the factory springs, the
factory rear swaybar was also permanently removed. The slightly stiffer OME
springs should negate the need for the articulation robbing swaybar.
Installing the new OME rear shocks and springs
is a no brainer. The only installation tip I'd suggest is that you take the
time to tighten the rear U-bolts evenly with a torque wrench. Without torquing
the bolts properly, you might think you've got them tight until you drive a few miles.
The front spring and shock installation went even quicker
since there are very few bolts to mess with. With the front suspension at full droop, remove
both front shocks. With the shocks out of the way, you can remove the
retaining bolt and tab at the bottom of each coil spring, then twist the
spring and remove them by pulling them out toward the rear of the Jeep.
Installing the new OME springs isn't quite as simple. Even without the
springs and shocks installed, the axle will only drop as far as the lower
control arms will let it, unfortunately, that's not very far. Since the OME
coils are a little longer, there is not enough room to simply throw in the
new coil springs the same way you removed the old. You'll have to either
disconnect the lower control arms so that the axle will drop farther, or use
a coil spring compressor to install the coils. I used the latter method. If
you're not using air tools however, it would probably be quicker and easier
to disconnect the lower control arm instead, using hand tools to tighten and
later remove the spring compressors would take forever and would probably be
the source for more than a few foul words.
The lift took me a little over 5 hours to install including a lunch break
and frequent picture taking. So what was this labor worth? About 2 inches of
lift in the front and 2 1/2 inches in the rear. The rear end sagged with the
stock springs so the extra height in the rear actually leveled the Jeep.
Measuring vertically from the ground, through the center of the wheel, to
the bottom of the fender flare the front end now measures 32 1/2 inches, the
rear is 32 5/8. The soon to be installed 30x9.50R15 tires should make for a
perfect fit with no rubbing.
After driving the new suspension a few miles, I decided the best part about
this lift really wasn't the increased ride height, but the much improved
handling. How many times can you say that about a lift kit? The same dips in
the road that used to put the stock Cherokee on it's bump stops can now be
taken at speed thanks to the increased travel. The shocks are perfect (as
advertised) for this application. I can't stress that enough, they are
perfect. They don't just physically fit, the valving is (again) perfect. The
only other suspension modification I will make is the addition of some sort
of lower control arm that will not limit down travel in order to take full
advantage of the new springs.
If you're looking for a moderate amount of lift for your XJ, this kit is the
way to go. Increased wheel travel, improved ride, and the ability to run a
larger tire are qualities that are rarely combined in an off-the-shelf
suspension system.